Agent Report: Emily in Croatia
Move over, Paris. . . Poe Travel’s very own Emily ventured to beautiful Croatia last year with our pals at Dinaric Adventures, and she’s sharing her remarkable experiences!
All photos courtesy of Emily Siemens or Dinaric Adventures
Last October, Emily from the Poe Travel team headed to Dubrovnik to begin her Croatian explorations in partnership with our friends at Dinaric Adventures. While every journey designed by Poe Travel is customized, Emily’s experiences give you an idea of what is possible in this fabulous country, particularly in the “shoulder season” months (just before or after peak season).
Most people flock to Croatia in the summer months, and it’s easy to see why: seemingly limitless sunshine, beautiful beaches, and incredible scenery. However, visiting at the tail-end of the season, like Emily did, can help you to skip the crowds while still enjoying temperate weather and sea waters still warm from the summer months.
Let’s take a look at Emily’s Croatian experiences. . .
Day 1 – October 27th
Dubrovnik Arrival
On arrival, Emily was privately transferred to the Pucić Palace Hotel for some time to settle in.
In the afternoon, Emily’s friendly local guide met her at the hotel and accompanied her to the Dubrovnik Cable Car for spectacular panoramic views of the city, its surrounding islands, and the crystal-clear Adriatic Sea from Mount Srđ. Ascending Dubrovnik’s red roof-topped Old Town grants a unique perspective on one of the Mediterranean's most beautiful cities. At the top, explore the 19th-century Imperial Fortress along with breathtaking views.
When they reached the summit of Mount Srđ, Emily was treated to a late lunch at Panorama Restaurant & Bar, which she says is a MUST when visiting Dubrovnik. She specifically recommends a reservation at sunset, and she says that while you have to walk a little way outside of the Cable Car walls to reach the restaurant, it is more than worth it. Along with scenic views, the restaurant boasts a creative chef inspired by the Dubrovnik region. Savor sumptuous seafood plates complemented by local and international wines and refreshing cocktails.
Hotel Spotlight: The Pucić Palace
A luxury hotel in the heart of Dubrovnik, the Pucić Palace is housed in one of the city’s most historic buildings. Its elegant rooms and suites are beautifully furnished and equipped with modern amenities. Emily also assures us that even though the hotel is in a central location, the soundproofing is impressive; she couldn’t hear any of the hustle and bustle! Take in views of the Adriatic Sea and the city from your window or the hotel’s rooftop terrace and dine on traditional Croatian cuisine in the restaurant. Another perk of the Pucić Palace is the private access to Banje Beach, Dubrovnik’s most iconic and popular. The hotel enjoys a reserved portion of the beach, meaning you can avoid the crowds and enjoy privacy while taking in one of the best views of Old Town and nearby Lokrum Island from a comfortable sun lounger.
Emily’s window faced the square where a local market opened each morning, perfect for people-watching. Something to bear in mind is that the Old Town is pedestrianized, so while your airport transfer drops you off as close as possible to the hotel, you do have to walk the rest of the way.
Day 2 – October 28th
Dubrovnik
Emily spent today exploring Dubrovnik on foot at leisure. In the early evening, she set off on a food and wine tour of Old Town Dubrovnik. Wandering the charming streets of Old Town, Emily was able to experience the tantalizing flavors of Adriatic cuisine with an expert guide, visiting famous landmarks and hidden gems known only by the locals. The evening departure time allows you to avoid the heat of the day as well as the crowds. The wine and food tastings give you a true sense of the region’s rich culinary heritage.
Day 3 – October 29th
Dubrovnik Countryside & Split
After checking out of the Pucić Palace, Emily set out with a private driver-guide for her transfer to Split with touring en-route, primarily in Konavle region in the countryside outside of Dubrovnik.
Konavle is renowned for its picturesque valley and the tranquil Ljuta River. It’s the ideal place for outdoor adventures, and Emily set off on a hike from the charming village of Gruda with her guide. They took a scenic path through the valley, walking alongside the river and passing by farms, vineyards, and quaint villages. They paused in the village of Ljuta for a traditional Dalmatian lunch at a local konoba, a family-run restaurant known for its authentic cuisine.
Afterwards, on the way to Split, Emily stopped for an exclusive wine-tasting experience on Pelješac. The tasting featured premium wines along with award-winning extra virgin olive oil.
When she arrived in Split, Emily checked into the first of two hotels she would visit during her time here: the Heritage Hotel Fermai Split. While we wouldn’t suggest clients splitting their time in a city between two hotels, this allowed Emily to compare the hotels and help us decide which one is right for you based on your preferences!
Finally, Emily ended her action-packed day with dinner at Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar, situated in Split’s Old Town. The diverse menu features fresh seafood, succulent meats, and seasonal vegetables, all paired with delicious wines.
Hotel Spotlight: Heritage Hotel Fermai Split
Heritage Hotel Fermai is located in bustling city center of Split, just steps away from the Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This hotel’s prime location enables easy access to the lively Mediterranean atmosphere of the city, while also offering a tranquil retreat from the bustle.
Day 4 – October 30th
Split
Because Emily was set to experience a second Split hotel, she checked out of her hotel this morning before heading off on a day she describes as “to die for!" as she headed out on a boat tour to the iconic Blue Cave on the island of Biševo, as well as Hvar, the Pakleni Islands, and more.
The Blue Cave is where Emily saw the benefit of visiting just outside of the peak tourist months. Emily says the water was still warm from the summer heat, but there were no crowds. Her guide advised her that, if visiting during peak months (May-August), it’s just not worth it to wait in the staggeringly long lines!
Next, they sailed to the enchanting village of Komiža on the island of Vis, with its mountainous backdrop and picturesque harbor. Then it was on to the Pakleni Islands, a cluster of fourteen untouched islands featuring secluded beaches, serene lagoons, charming bays, and dense pine forests emerging from the Adriatic waters.
Finally, they reached Hvar, where there was time for lunch at the Moli Onte Restaurant, located in the charming fishing village of Milna and dishing up Dalmatian cuisine. Hvar was the perfect place for a leisurely stroll to unwind after a busy day on and off the boat before Emily returned to Split to check into the Hotel Ambassador.
Hotel Spotlight: Hotel Ambassador Split
Like the Heritage Hotel Fermai, the Ambassador is also in the heart of the city, near the Diocletian’s Palace and offering easy access to Split’s many attractions. This modern and elegant luxury hotel features spacious rooms, and Emily says the views were nothing short of fabulous. The hotel’s stylish restaurant serves Croatian and international cuisine, offering indoor and outdoor seating and a wide selection of wines and cocktails. Its rooftop bar boasts panoramic views of the city and sea, the perfect place to unwind after sightseeing. Speaking of unwinding, if you want a bit of pampering, head to the hotel’s spa.
Day 5 – October 31st
Ziplining & Trilj
Emily’s morning was spent ziplining, which she enjoyed and says is perfect for adventurous families or couples. Emily’s guide took them to the Cetina River canyon, where she experienced the thrill of gliding across eight steel cables for stunning views during a guided descent of the canyon.
The afternoon took Emily to Trilj in the Zagora region for an authentic culinary experience. It was even more special than Emily had anticipated because the experience was actually lunch at her guide’s grandmother’s house! The food was delicious, with the menu featuring local specialties like soparnik, uštipci, prosciutto, and cheese, all prepared following time-honored recipes. Her hosts even went so far as to prepare a birthday cake as a surprise for one traveler in the group! Every detail provided a genuine glimpse of life in this rural, relaxed atmosphere.
Day 5 – November 1st
Split & Šibenik
After checking out of her hotel, Emily set off on a cycling tour in Split through the ancient Diocletian’s Palace and spiritual sites in the city’s oasis. Along with seeing many of the city’s main sites, Emily ventured to Marjan, the hill on the west of the Split peninsula. This area has an extensive history as an important spiritual site, and it’s perfect for nature enthusiasts too.
Emily's last lunch in Split was at the cliffside Restaurant Adriatic. The terrace here is a year-round locals’ favorite, with 270° views of the islands.
An hour’s drive saw Emily arrive in Šibenik, checking into the King Krešimir Heritage Hotel before setting off on a short walking tour with a lovely local guide to learn the city’s historic streets and heritage, as well as spotting one of the city’s most iconic sites, the UNESCO-listed St. James’s Cathedral.
Emily’s busy day culminated with dinner at Bronzin Restaurant, where each meal becomes a culinary journey. In the city center, this charming eatery is sophisticated yet welcoming, with a menu showcasing the finest locally sourced ingredients.
Hotel Spotlight: King Krešimir Heritage Hotel
Named in years past as Croatia’s best small hotel, the King Krešimir Heritage Hotel is “very quaint!” says Emily. With only eight rooms, the hotel is located right on the main square, only a short walk from St. James’s Cathedral. The outside terrace features a lounge and restaurant, perfect for cocktails, local dishes, and the best coffee in town.
Emily stayed in the King Suite, with its own stairs leading to the rooftop and a private hot tub overlooking the city. Like the Pucić Palace in Dubrovnik, the King Krešimir is located in a pedestrianized area, so this is something to keep in mind logistically. The hotel also does not have an elevator, though porters are available to assist with your bags.
Day 6 – November 2nd
Plitvice Lakes National Park
Emily described this day as “simply stunning,” noting that she couldn’t really come up with words to adequately describe the beauty of Plitvice Lakes National Park and that the photos would have to speak for themselves.
After checking out of her hotel, a two-hour private transfer brought Emily to Plitvice Lakes, an area of sixteen lakes connected by 92 waterfalls. The area was declared a national park in 1949 and became UNESCO-listed in 1979. Every season offers a unique experience here, giving you the chance to enjoy untouched nature. Emily spent about five hours inside the park, walking, boating, and even riding an electric train!
After her unforgettable day in the national park, Emily was transferred two hours to Zagreb, where she checked into the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel before dinner at Restaurant Vinodol. The restaurant building once served as a stable for horses, honored today with the horse sculptures at its entrance. Over its long history, Vinodol has preserved its tradition of local dishes, while seamlessly blending in modern culinary innovations.
Hotel Spotlight: Esplanade Zagreb Hotel
A luxury hotel located in Zagreb’s city center, the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel offers spacious and beautifully furnished rooms. Zinfandel’s Restaurant features Mediterranean and California-style dishes; Le Bistro celebrates authentic, regional cuisine; and Esplanade 1925 is perfect for a yummy cocktail or light snack. Oleander Terrace, with its delectable Latin food, is the best for views of the city. The Esplanade has been at the heart of Zagreb’s social scene since the day it opened, with countless presidents and celebrities among its roster of guests.
Day 7 – November 3rd
Zagreb & Departure
After checking out of the hotel, Emily set off on one last morning tour with a local guide before her flight home, this time to explore Zagreb. With a decidedly European feel, Emily says Zagreb felt different to the rest of Croatia. Her short tour took her through the city’s Old Town and the city’s main landmarks, with each stop steeped in rich cultural heritage.
After her jaunt out in the city, Emily hopped into her private transfer to the airport, reluctantly bidding Croatia farewell.
If you would like to Go Away to Croatia, contact us. We will utilize Emily’s insider knowledge to design a totally customized itinerary to suit your preferences and energy levels.